Restaurants that have marked an era

Madrid can boast of having several centuries-old restaurants, well-known in Europe and some of the oldest in the world.. Of all of them, it is worth highlighting Botín, which, according to Guinness World Records, is the oldest restaurant in the world.. It was in 1725 when the Botín family decided to open an inn and, curiously, at that time, they were not allowed to sell food or wine, but only what the guest brought could be cooked..

Also, of course, Lhardy, who marked an era in the 19th century and is now experiencing a new stage. Since its acquisition by Pescaderías Coruñesas, it has maintained the tradition and classic atmosphere of its origins, incorporating new possibilities.. Along with Botín and Lhardy, I want to talk about some of the most representative centenary restaurants in Madrid, which have marked an era in the history and society of Madrid.

40s

In the 40s, there were two restaurants that allowed Madrid to discover two important European cuisines.. Of course, the French that, for 150 years, has personalized haute cuisine in the world, but also traditional German cuisine. I'm talking about Jockey and Horcher.

• Horcher, 1943

In 1943, Don Otto, who had already worked in Berlin with his father, moved to Madrid and established, in a unique space in front of the Retiro, a restaurant that is still alive and in full positive evolution: Horcher. Don Otto was succeeded by his son Gustav and, currently, his granddaughter, Elisabeth, runs the restaurant..

Horcher introduced the haute cuisine of game, incorporating new techniques and ways of cooking and even serving and serving customers.. Currently, with Elisabeth at the helm, there is a team of professionals who have come to replace some as legendary as Cristóbal.

• Jockey, 1945

In 1945, Jockey appeared, the work of Clodoaldo Cortés, a self-made person who, in addition to the restaurant, promoted catering for hunts and established another very successful restaurant, Club 31..

Jockey has changed its name, it is now called Saddle, but the new owners have wanted to maintain many of the traditions of the legendary restaurant. And they have achieved it thanks to the current team, with Adolfo Santos in the kitchen and Israel Ramírez in charge of the dining room and the cellar..

70's

In the 1970s, two completely different restaurants marked a turning point in Spanish gastronomy.. Zalacaín and Casa Lucio, with very different styles, became meeting places for prominent personalities from the social and political scene, both Spanish and international..

• Zalacaín, 1973

Zalacaín turns 50 years old. It was the work of Jesús Oyarbide, an extraordinary businessman, promoter and gourmet. It then passed into the hands of Luis García Cereceda and, later, for a time, it was run by his daughter Susana (to whom we owe an important change in the scenery). Currently, it has been acquired by a promoter group formed by Manuel Marrón, Íñigo Pérez “Urrechu”, Antonio Menéndez and Luis Manuel Marrón.

In its day, Zalacaín gave fame to four great professionals: Benjamín in the kitchen, Blas and Carmelo in the room and Custodio in the winery.. Today, they maintain the team that worked with them, with four great professionals of the same level as the previous ones: Jorge Losa at the head of the kitchen; Roberto Jiménez and Luis Polo, in the room (both, Excelencias Gourmet Award for Best Head of Room 2022); and Raúl Revilla in the winery (National Gastronomy Award for Best Sommelier 2023 by the Royal Academy of Gastronomy).

• Lucio House, 1974

The other restaurant whose influence and significance can be placed at the level of Zalacaín is, without a doubt, Casa Lucio. A restaurant that could be considered the first great tourist-gastronomic ambassador of our country, perhaps along with Cándido, in Segovia.

Since its opening, in 1974, until today, we have all gone to Casa Lucio by Lucio Blázquez. Its personality and charm have meant that great personalities and celebrities have passed through there over the years.. From presidents of the United States, actors, flamenco singers and musicians to politicians or athletes, and all those personalities who came to Madrid and who could not stop visiting a place as magical as Casa Lucio, and its protagonist. Even trying a dish as emblematic as “Lucio's eggs.”.

Lucio is still in the restaurant, at noon, to receive his friends, while his daughter Carmen continues, who runs it admirably well.. With more than four decades of experience, Casa Lucio has managed to remain a gastronomic and tourist reference in Madrid. Its privileged location in the La Latina neighborhood, in the heart of the capital, and a decoration that evokes Madrid's tradition and history, make it the ideal place to enjoy a unique experience.