The Cantero sisters and the 'black-legged chickens' of Cádiz: the new life of a former president of Accenture

SPAIN / By Cruz Ramiro

The story of Finca Loma Verde is a story of brothers-in-law. But of in-laws “not in a pejorative sense”. It is the hope of turning a Christmas Eve dish with which the Cantero sisters entertain their family every December 24 into a business.. A delicatessen that has one main ingredient: capon. A small castrated chicken that reaches five kilos in weight and on which an “honest” business project based on “sustainable poultry farming” gravitates..

Their breeding on a farm in the mountains of Cadiz has become a media phenomenon, in part, due to the unique diet that the birds receive.. And those already known as black-legged chickens or 5J chickens have acorns, olives, asparagus, pomegranates or quinces in their diet.. Food that turns this delicacy into an “enjoyment” that, thanks to the digital economy, has customers in many parts of the country: “Madrid, Asturias, Cantabria, Albacete, Barcelona, all of Andalusia…”.

But Finca Loma Verde is also a new life stage for an executive of a large multinational who left behind his time on the boards of directors to work as a salesperson.. Vicente Moreno, former president and CEO of Accenture, now visits chicken shops and restaurant businesses to offer capons and pulardas.

The poultry farm bears the surname Cantero and the names of Marisa and Maite. These sisters are the heart of a business in which their husbands are partners. “We accompany them,” says Vicente, who defines himself as one of the brothers-in-law.

Each marriage adds 50% in a company with just over a year and a half of life, where other family members have their functions.. And his brother Eduardo is the one who practically runs the farm. Well, to be honest, it's something else.. It's your soul. A twenty-something passionate about the countryside, a student of Agricultural Engineering and with a technical degree in livestock and animal health care, who “dragged” the rest towards an exciting project, but conditioned by the uncertainty that currently stalks the primary sector..

The largest investment was to buy the four-hectare farm that the partners acquired between the Cádiz municipalities of Algodonales and El Gastor. A “beautiful” place, surrounded by nature, “perfect” to develop sustainable poultry farming in which chickens are raised “in total freedom”. With the company of Argos and Vigía, two mastiffs with a certain pachora in their walks, but with a resonant bark, who act as bodyguards against the birds of prey that lurk in the area..

It is one of the few noises heard on the farm, because the chickens stop singing when they are capped.. “They say that this is the reason for the origin of the capons, in Ancient Rome, because the morning crowing of the roosters bothered them”.

This quasi-idyllic setting, where the rain is regular and where the flora makes its way, provides a natural diet that leaves its mark on the flavor.. And we have planted pomegranate and quince trees,” says Vicente, who explains to El Confidencial that the products they are marketing are “a joy” for the palate and lend themselves to the liturgy of those passionate about gastronomy..

“Our capons and pulardas are for those who want to dedicate time to cooking,” and that “the product is an incentive to spend time with friends and family,” the businessman explains, before confessing that “I have learned to appreciate food more.” “.

The once great executive emphasizes that this project wants to be, above all, “honest”. And that happens, in large part, by being careful with the environment, avoiding the intensive exploitation model and treating birds respectfully until the end of their days..

The sacrifice is carried out in an “artisanal” slaughterhouse in Conil de la Frontera. “One by one, by hand, and dry”, so the removal of the feathers is not done by putting them in boiling water, which preserves the taste of the meat.

“They accumulate an infiltrated fat that gives them a special flavor”. “It is exquisite, juicy, tasty,” highlights Vicente Moreno, while putting his sales skills into practice.. Because this bet has not only led him to enter a new life experience, but also to embark on an unknown professional path..

From president to commercial

In 2016, when he left the presidency of Accenture for Spain, Portugal, Africa and Israel, the boards of directors of the multinational gave way to enriching work in different foundations. But possibly he did not imagine that over time he would end up visiting chicken shops and other businesses in the food sector to offer Finca Loma Verde products..

“My role in the company is to be in charge of marketing, but also to act as a salesperson”. Something that “I like” because “it is very different” from what I had done until that moment. “I meet in the market” with potential clients, “I explain to them how much a kilo costs”, “the peculiarities of our birds”…. “It's fun,” confesses someone who spent 30 years in a large company and who now enjoys “a fun adventure with his family.”.

Vicente acknowledges that “he didn't know anything about this industry” and that “it has been a radical change,” but he has found in poultry farming the satisfaction of “doing something different.”.

He relates that word of mouth and the positive interaction of the first clients have been very important for the gradual growth of the project, especially because “no one knew us, nor did we know how to make ourselves known.”.

“It is a difficult world, with several established brands that offer the cooked product,” but that did not stop them from selling the 300 capons they raised last Christmas.. For this year, following the advice of some experts, they decided to change breed and opted for the Las Landes label strain.. The lot was expanded to 500: 200 pulardas —which have already been sold— and 300 capons —of which only 50 remain—.

Currently, they are using half of the farm — which contains three warehouses, a complementary natural feed silo and a sanitation room — and up to 1,500 chickens could be raised on this surface.. The room for growth is evident. Although the family does not want to risk death due to success, so an increase in production will be highly planned so that it does not entail a loss of quality..

Vicente affirms that the media impact they are having has boosted sales through electronic commerce and that the company's next step is to penetrate the restaurant industry, supplying restaurants that want to include the product in their menu.. For now, they are savoring the joys of a small success that they want to continue. “This is a joy.”