The retinol test, this is how cosmetics are closely monitored

Although the skin has to be monitored all year round, it is now in summer when more attention is given to it. High temperatures mean that more centimeters are exposed and to protect it from sun damage, photoprotective creams are used. UVA rays? SPF? And every year, again, the intensive course to learn to read labels and choose the most appropriate.

Perhaps the problem lies in the fact that in our routine the majority of the population omits the health of their skin, we have a pending issue with the creams and potions that we apply. We rarely know what one of these products really contains and we put ourselves in the hands of marketing. Knowing and understanding what goes into a cosmetic is as important as unraveling the labeling of processed foods. Let's remember that the almost two square meters of skin (depending on the size of the person) has the capacity to absorb the ingredients of what we apply and can end up in the bloodstream.

Cosmetics are subject to strict regulation, just like medicines. In Europe, Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 on cosmetic products dictates the legal requirements to guarantee the safety, quality and labeling of those marketed in the EU.

Sometimes the changes in the rules of use of some raise the controversy. The last one comes from the hand of retinol. Hopes are placed in this compound to restore youth to the skin. “It is a derivative of vitamin A and is used in anti-aging products due to its ability to promote cell renewal, improve skin texture, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and blemishes”. This is how Gema Herrerías, pharmacist and nutritionist, and author, together with Marian García, of the book Radiography of a Cosmetic explains it.

The European Commission, in the same way that it monitors the substances we ingest and those used to erase diseases, monitors what we put on our skin. At the end of June 2023, a draft was published with a new regulation for retinol in cosmetic products that will later be included in European Regulation 1223/2009 in Annex III.. And this means?

A priori it seemed that the foundations of the industry that promises eternal youth with a single gesture day and night were going to collapse. However, the document only includes restrictions for ingredients derived from vitamin A, such as retinol, retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate, due to their potential endocrine disrupting effect in cosmetic products.. Bad for health? In large quantities, these elements can hack or interfere with hormonal messages.. Hence its study and the regulation of its use.

The limitation in the concentration of retinol is intended to avoid possible overexposure to this vitamin A from different sources, not only cosmetic, even exceeding the recommended daily intake dose.. “With this information it is necessary to point out that cosmetics are safe, toxic cosmetics do not exist,” underlines García. “It is important to mention that cosmetic products with 0.5% and 1% retinol concentrations currently available on the market are considered safe and can continue to be used until they run out,” adds Herrerías.

It is about controlling a substance “because retinol is being used indiscriminately without control, mistakenly thinking that the more times a day and the more concentrated the better, when in many cases it is not needed or tolerated. There is fear of the possibility of a cumulative effect of vitamin A due to abuse, ”says Herrerías.

Direct evidence that retinol in cosmetics acts as an endocrine disruptor in humans is, to date, limited.. “This is not to say that it has no impact, but rather that more research is needed to fully understand these effects.. It is important to keep in mind that the concentration in most skin care products is generally low,” García underlines.. So there are no cases of hair loss, chapped lips, dry skin, weak bones, headaches or increased blood calcium concentrations, symptoms of excess vitamin A.

According to the new established guidelines, which will be included in European Regulation 1223/2009 in Annex III, “the maximum allowed concentration of vitamin A in a body lotion, in the finished product, will become 0.05%. However, in other products such as those with prolonged application or rinsing, such as facials, the maximum allowed concentration of retinol or retinol equivalent will be 0.3%.”. Once the go-ahead is given, any cosmetic containing vitamin A must display on its label the warning “Contains compounds related to vitamin A, which contribute to the daily intake of vitamin A”. The measure seeks to inform consumers about the presence of these compounds in products.

With this example, the strict surveillance of what we spread on our skin from the EU and also in Spain is valued. The competent authority here is the Spanish Agency for Medicines and Health Products (Aemps). It is up to you to take measures such as withdrawing the product from the market, imposing restrictions or warnings.

For a cosmetic to reach the shelves, it follows a rigorous process. The European regulation to which all states must adhere establishes the legal requirements to guarantee the safety, quality and labeling of cosmetic products that are marketed in the EU. And it follows similar steps as if it were a drug: safety evaluation, ingredient restrictions and labeling.

“Before a cosmetic product is placed on the market, it must undergo a safety evaluation.. The manufacturer or person responsible for marketing the product is responsible for guaranteeing the safety of the ingredients used,” explains Herrerías.. “Possible adverse effects on human health, skin irritations, allergic reactions or toxicity should be considered.”

In X-ray of a cosmetic, the authors break down up to 17 components, which, as García points out, “seven of them are considered magnificent: hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, retinol, centella asiatica extract, sunscreens and glycolic acid”. The remaining ten are “less common, but still have their audience and are effective ingredients: ceramides, vitamin E, retinaldehyde, panthenol, gluconolactone, salicylic acid, azelaic acid, growth factors, peptides and tranexamic acid”. It is important to note that the popularity of cosmetic ingredients can vary according to market trends and the specific needs of each person.. To which Herrerías qualifies that “the concentration and combination of ingredients in each cosmetic product may vary, which also influences its effectiveness”. These factors are put to the test in laboratories, as if the effect of a drug in the body were being measured.. “The examination may include toxicity tests, skin and eye irritation tests, skin sensitization tests, phototoxicity tests and other specific tests depending on the nature of the product,” Herrerías specifies.

And, once this is overcome, the process does not stop because the competent authorities carry out continuous market surveillance to detect and withdraw from the market those products that represent a risk to health.. It is what is known as cosmetovigilance, which in Spain is carried out through the electronic portal NotificaCS of the Aemps. “This involves carrying out random checks on products already on the market, as well as investigating complaints and complaints from consumers.”

Herrerías explains that “monitoring and collecting information on possible adverse effects or unexpected effects when cosmetics are already on the market and they are used normally is essential to identify potential risks and take measures to protect the health of consumers”. Many products are withdrawn from the market at this stage, as harmful effects on health are demonstrated. An example was the one carried out by Aemps last year. The cosmetic Taky divine wax, a facial depilatory cream with natural oils, had a defect in its packaging. So Byly Laboratories informed the agency that the defective containers began to deteriorate before the end of the time indicated in the instructions for use of the product to heat the wax.. So we proceeded to withdraw and recover the consumers from the affected lot (26:03 2301).

In order not to get carried away by fashions and siren songs, Herrerías recommends knowing what dermatological needs each one has. “Before examining the ingredients of a product, it is important to know the type and condition of the person's skin, to find those products with ingredients that suit their specific needs,” Herrerías points out.

This is not trivial because the Spanish Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (Aedv) notes that 1.2% of general dermatology consultations are caused by intolerance to cosmetic products and 0.76% are allergic to some substance contained in them.. Among the ingredients that most frequently produce irritative reactions are the substances used to prevent skin aging, especially acids.

The AEDV points out that no cosmetic is innocuous, even if they promise to be natural. «All cosmetics, even natural ones, need preservatives, so they can cause the same problems as other cosmetics, it will only depend on the type of preservatives and concentration they use». But the problem of some is that they do not indicate their composition and “in many cases they do not even have a label: in this case we cannot trust them, because they are not as innocuous as they are painted”, stresses the scientific society. “Reading the labels and claims of cosmetics is necessary to make decisions about the products that best suit the needs of the skin in each case,” says Herrerías.. But it is quite a challenge for a user to get to interpret the list of ingredients, “and for this reason it is advisable to consult a qualified health professional,” he stresses.